I am so excited to finally be releasing this pattern! This guy has been a roller coaster to create but I am so happy with the way it turned out in the end. I used a different technique to achieve the open stitch of this cardigan. I used the Tunisian crochet throughout the entire garment and I didn’t do any type of fitting (increase or decrease) so this thing is so easy to make once you get the Tunisian technique down.
So, once I finally got this guy all worked up, stitched together and blocked, I tried it on and it was NOTHING like I wanted it to be! I was so discouraged that I honestly thought about throwing it away and totally forgetting about making a spring cardigan entirely. Then, I took a few deep breathes and decided to try something totally different. I IRONED (gasp) the cardigan! I, of course, did some research and made some swatches before completely leaping into the process. I’ll admit, I was terrified to iron this beauty but I was pretty confident that things would work out, and it did (thankfully)!
Here is a picture of how my swatch looked before any blocking or anything was done.
As you can see, Tunisian crochet naturally curls, so I knew I had to block it. So, I made two of these swatches the exact same size so that I could compare what happened after blocking and then after ironing.
The top one is the one I ironed, it made the texture much flatter and more airy, which is the look I was going for. The bottom swatch is the one I steam blocked. It did open the stitches up but it still seems too tight and thick for a spring piece.
I made this cardigan available in several sizes and all the sizes are AFTER ironing! The swatch did get half an inch wider from ironing it. If you choose not to iron your cardigan, please take into consideration the sizing difference! Also, once you iron the cardigan, there is no going back. The stitches will stay as they are, no matter what.
6.5 mm afghan crochet hook
4 skeins of baby bee sweet delight yarn in angel. sizes L and XL might need 5 skeins
4 stitch markers
Sizing for the cardigan are as follows: S(M, L, XL)
S- Chest: 35″ Sleeve: 21” Hem-Underarm: 20″ Upper arm: 12″
M- Chest: 37″ Sleeve: 22” Hem-Underarm: 20″ Upper arm: 12″
L- Chest: 44″ Sleeve: 22” Hem-Underarm: 21″ Upper arm: 14.5″
XL- Chest: 49″ Sleeve: 22” Hem-Underarm: 21″ Upper arm: 15.5″
before iron: 8 rows of 16 sts is 4.5 ” across and 3″ tall
after iron: 8 rows of 16 sts is 5″ across and 3″ tall
How to Tunisian Crochet:
Ch 10 using your afghan hook
Normally in crochet you work your next sts into the top part of the chain st but here we will be working into the back of the st.
Insert your hook into the back of the st in the second chain from the hook and pull up a loop and leave it on your hook
Now, insert your hook into the back of the third st and bring up a loop and leave it on your hook. Continue to the end of the row by working into the back of your sts and pulling up a loop.
YO and pull through only the first loop on your hook.
YO and pull through the next TWO loops on your hook
Continue to the end of the row by YO and pulling through 2 loops until you only have one loop left on your hook. This will be your first row.
Now, you’re going to insert your hook behind the first straight up and down part of the first st.
YO and pull up a loop, leaving it on your hook
Continue the same way to the second to last st by pulling up a loop in the same spot on each st. When you get to the last st your going to insert your hook into the entire st. Make sure you pick up both parts of the st. YO and pull up a loop.
Start on your return row by YO and pulling through only the first loop on the hook. YO and pull through 2 loops to the end of the row when you have only 1 loop left on your hook.
Next, I’m gonna show you how to finish off at the end of your piece. So, you’re going to insert your hook into the st and pull up a loop like you normally would and then pull that loop through the first loop on your hook. Like a sl st.
Continue to the end of the row by pulling up a loop and then pulling that loop through the loop on your hook. You should only have one loop on your hook when you move to pull up your next loop.
My tension was a little tight when I did my return row, so make sure you watch your tension when you finish off. You don’t want your work to curve!
Front Panel: (make 2)
Ch 27(30,40,48) work in the Tunisian Crochet pattern until you do 75(75,80,80) complete rows (row 76 will be your ending row where you so the slip sts).
Ch 60(66,86,102) work in the Tunisian Crochet pattern until you do 75(75,80,80) complete rows with your 76 row being your ending row.
At this point I connected my 2 front panels to my back panel. Make sure you sew them by turning your pieces with the right sides facing each other and the wrong side facing out. I lined up my outside corner of my front panel to the corresponding corner of my back panel. This is for the top (shoulders) of the cardigan.
For the sides I measured 7(8,9,10) inches from the top (shoulder) down and placed a st marker on the front panel and the back panel on both sides. This will be your armhole. I recommend you put this on and make sure this is a good size armhole for you, if it is not simply move the st marker to where you feel most comfortable. Please keep in mind that the armhole should be snug because it will loosen when we iron it out.
I apologize right now for the fact that I can’t find the pictures I took of my arm process. I am so sorry!! I will do the best I can at explaining this process. Please comment if you need further explaining!
Turn your cardigan right side out so that the right side of your work is now facing you. Connect your yarn to where the st marker is on your front right panel (this would be the right side when facing the cardigan). Pic up a loop in each st working along the edge of the armhole until you get to the st marker you placed on the back panel and continue on with your return row like you would in the Tunisian Crochet pattern. Work for 61(61,64,64) rows and then finish off at row 62(62,65,65).
For the left sleeve (when facing the cardigan) you’re going to turn the cardigan around so the back is now facing you and attach your yarn at the st marker you placed on the back panel. Pick up loops along the edge of the back panel all the way around to your other st marker on the front left panel and continue on in the Tunisian Crochet pattern until you reach 61(61,64,64) rows finishing off at row 62(62,65,65).
Turn your cardigan back to inside out and sew up the sleeves on each side.
Now comes time to iron your cardigan. I actually steamed the cardigan with my iron steamer and stretched it out a bit (like blocking) before I ironed each piece. It makes it a lot easier to iron the parts that want to curl under. I also had my heat turned up pretty high. I did the highest heat but I have an old, cheap iron so if you have a strong, hot iron, you may want to investigate the heat setting a little before you begin.
I hope this pattern is as easy as it should be for you. It does take a little time but mostly because the yarn is thin and the Tunisian Crochet does take a bit longer for me to work up than normal crochet does. I hope you love your finished spring cardigan!