Spring Cardigan

I am so excited to finally be releasing this pattern! This guy has been a roller coaster to create but I am so happy with the way it turned out in the end. I used a different technique to achieve the open stitch of this cardigan. I used the Tunisian crochet throughout the entire garment and I didn’t do any type of fitting (increase or decrease) so this thing is so easy to make once you get the Tunisian technique down.

So, once I finally got this guy all worked up, stitched together and blocked, I tried it on and it was NOTHING like I wanted it to be! I was so discouraged that I honestly thought about throwing it away and totally forgetting about making a spring cardigan entirely. Then, I took a few deep breathes and decided to try something totally different. I IRONED (gasp) the cardigan! I, of course, did some research and made some swatches before completely leaping into the process. I’ll admit, I was terrified to iron this beauty but I was pretty confident that things would work out, and it did (thankfully)!

Here is a picture of how my swatch looked before any blocking or anything was done.

As you can see, Tunisian crochet naturally curls, so I knew I had to block it. So, I made two of these swatches the exact same size so that I could compare what happened after blocking and then after ironing.

The top one is the one I ironed, it made the texture much flatter and more airy, which is the look I was going for. The bottom swatch is the one I steam blocked. It did open the stitches up but it still seems too tight and thick for a spring piece.

I made this cardigan available in several sizes and all the sizes are AFTER ironing! The swatch did get half an inch wider from ironing it. If you choose not to iron your cardigan, please take into consideration the sizing difference! Also, once you iron the cardigan, there is no going back. The stitches will stay as they are, no matter what.

Materials:

6.5 mm afghan crochet hook

4 skeins of baby bee sweet delight yarn in angel. sizes L and XL might need 5 skeins

yarn needle

Iron

4 stitch markers

Notes:

Sizing for the cardigan are as follows: S(M, L, XL)

S- Chest: 35″ Sleeve: 21” Hem-Underarm: 20″ Upper arm: 12″

M- Chest: 37″ Sleeve: 22” Hem-Underarm: 20″ Upper arm: 12″

L- Chest: 44″ Sleeve: 22” Hem-Underarm: 21″ Upper arm: 14.5″

XL- Chest: 49″ Sleeve: 22” Hem-Underarm: 21″ Upper arm: 15.5″

Gauge:

before iron: 8 rows of 16 sts is 4.5 ” across and 3″ tall

after iron: 8 rows of 16 sts is 5″ across and 3″ tall

How to Tunisian Crochet:

Ch 10 using your afghan hook

Normally in crochet you work your next sts into the top part of the chain st but here we will be working into the back of the st.

Insert your hook into the back of the st in the second chain from the hook and pull up a loop and leave it on your hook

Now, insert your hook into the back of the third st and bring up a loop and leave it on your hook. Continue to the end of the row by working into the back of your sts and pulling up a loop.

YO and pull through only the first loop on your hook.

YO and pull through the next TWO loops on your hook

Continue to the end of the row by YO and pulling through 2 loops until you only have one loop left on your hook. This will be your first row.

Now, you’re going to insert your hook behind the first straight up and down part of the first st.

YO and pull up a loop, leaving it on your hook

Continue the same way to the second to last st by pulling up a loop in the same spot on each st. When you get to the last st your going to insert your hook into the entire st. Make sure you pick up both parts of the st. YO and pull up a loop.

Start on your return row by YO and pulling through only the first loop on the hook. YO and pull through 2 loops to the end of the row when you have only 1 loop left on your hook.

Next, I’m gonna show you how to finish off at the end of your piece. So, you’re going to insert your hook into the st and pull up a loop like you normally would and then pull that loop through the first loop on your hook. Like a sl st.

Continue to the end of the row by pulling up a loop and then pulling that loop through the loop on your hook. You should only have one loop on your hook when you move to pull up your next loop.

My tension was a little tight when I did my return row, so make sure you watch your tension when you finish off. You don’t want your work to curve!

Pattern:

Front Panel: (make 2)

Ch 27(30,40,48) work in the Tunisian Crochet pattern until you do 75(75,80,80) complete rows (row 76 will be your ending row where you so the slip sts).

Back Panel:

Ch 60(66,86,102) work in the Tunisian Crochet pattern until you do 75(75,80,80) complete rows with your 76 row being your ending row.

At this point I connected my 2 front panels to my back panel. Make sure you sew them by turning your pieces with the right sides facing each other and the wrong side facing out. I lined up my outside corner of my front panel to the corresponding corner of my back panel. This is for the top (shoulders) of the cardigan.

For the sides I measured 7(8,9,10) inches from the top (shoulder) down and placed a st marker on the front panel and the back panel on both sides. This will be your armhole. I recommend you put this on and make sure this is a good size armhole for you, if it is not simply move the st marker to where you feel most comfortable. Please keep in mind that the armhole should be snug because it will loosen when we iron it out.

Arms:

I apologize right now for the fact that I can’t find the pictures I took of my arm process. I am so sorry!! I will do the best I can at explaining this process. Please comment if you need further explaining!

Turn your cardigan right side out so that the right side of your work is now facing you. Connect your yarn to where the st marker is on your front right panel (this would be the right side when facing the cardigan). Pic up a loop in each st working along the edge of the armhole until you get to the st marker you placed on the back panel and continue on with your return row like you would in the Tunisian Crochet pattern. Work for 61(61,64,64) rows and then finish off at row 62(62,65,65).

For the left sleeve (when facing the cardigan) you’re going to turn the cardigan around so the back is now facing you and attach your yarn at the st marker you placed on the back panel. Pick up loops along the edge of the back panel all the way around to your other st marker on the front left panel and continue on in the Tunisian Crochet pattern until you reach 61(61,64,64) rows finishing off at row 62(62,65,65).

Turn your cardigan back to inside out and sew up the sleeves on each side.

Now comes time to iron your cardigan. I actually steamed the cardigan with my iron steamer and stretched it out a bit (like blocking) before I ironed each piece. It makes it a lot easier to iron the parts that want to curl under. I also had my heat turned up pretty high. I did the highest heat but I have an old, cheap iron so if you have a strong, hot iron, you may want to investigate the heat setting a little before you begin.

I hope this pattern is as easy as it should be for you. It does take a little time but mostly because the yarn is thin and the Tunisian Crochet does take a bit longer for me to work up than normal crochet does. I hope you love your finished spring cardigan!

 

 

 

Summer Tote Insert

As promised, here is the little purse I made to carry things like your ID and cash or whatever you may need thats too small to just toss into your tote. This little purse is pretty much a tiny version of the tote. I made my sister one for our birthday and I added a magnetic closure using needle and thread but here I am posting the purse without any closure. If I get a lot of interest in how to add the closure I will make a separate post about it. This pattern only takes about 20 minutes to make and will use up the remaining yarn your have left over from the tote pattern.

Materials:

5.0 crochet needle

About 40 yards of 2 skeins of Yarn Bee, Denim in Color (I used 2 pieces of yarn together just like I did with the tote)

Yarn Needle

Scissors

Notes:

If you made the tote from my previous post, you already know we used 2 skeins at one time and we are doing the same with this little purse. This will be the perfect project to use of the remaining yarn you have leftover from the tote.

Each row will being in the same st as your join.

Pattern:

Ch 19.

Row 1: 3HDC in second ch from hook. 16HDC across. 3HDC in last ch. Turn your piece as you do your 3rd HDC and work on the back of your ch. 17HDC and join with sl st to your first HDC.

Row 2-9: Ch1. HDC in each st around. join to first HDC in each row with a sl st. (39)

Row 10: Ch1. 10HDC. ch11, skip 9 sts and join to the 10th st with a sl st. ch1 and do 1hdc in same st as join. 10HDC. ch11, skip 9 sts and join to beginning HDC with a sl st.

Row 11: Ch1. HDC in each st around and join with sl st to first HDC of the row. (43)

Finish off and weave in ends.

I hope you enjoy this little purse! My sister loves the one I made for her!

 

Crochet Summer Tote

Hey Guys! Sorry I haven’t posted in a while. I was invited to participate in a craft show and it took a lot of time to get things made and organized for it. I had so much fun doing it and getting out there for my first time, but I’m definitely glad to be back to making things for the site!

This tote turned out way different than I had pictured in my head. It was frogged a million times but I love the end result! I originally wanted to make it as a market bag because I am obsessed with Aldi and go there weekly, but once it started working up, I thought it looked like a perfect tote to take to the beach or park on a nice summer day that I am so desperately longing for! I am definitely sick of this cold weather!

After I finished this tote, I sent the picture to my sister and she all but demanded one in grey for our birthday so I quietly made her one and, just like with this one, I had a good amount of yarn leftover and thought it would be perfect to make a little small bag for the inside to keep the smaller things in while using the tote and it turned out so cute! So, I’ll be posting that pattern soon as well so stay tuned for that!

Materials:

5.0 mm crochet hook

6 balls of Yarn Bee Denim In Color. I used the taupe one for mine.

yarn needle

scissors

Notes:

The reason I needed 6 balls of yarn was because I used 2 strands at one time for this tote. It made it thick and sturdy and since the yarn is  50% cotton and 50% acrylic, it was perfect!

To make the bottom on the tote square, I did 2hdc in the corner then I chained one and did 2hdc in the next st. I did work into my previous rows ch1 space. Please do not be confused here. So, when I say 2hdc, ch1, 2hdc, the first 2hdc will be in the hdc right before the previous rows ch1 sp and the second 2hdc will go into the ch1 space from the previous row to keep the work square. If you need any further clarification here, please contact me through email found under the contact section to the right or comment directly on the post.

I only did my tote for 22 rows but you can make yours how ever tall you want so feel free to go past 22 rows.

Each row ends in the sl st from the previous rows join when working the square bottom.

Pattern:

Ch 20. (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) in second ch from hook. 17 hdc. (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) in last ch. turn your work over so you’re now working on the other side of the starting chain. 17 hdc. 2 hdc in last ch and join with sl st to first hdc.

Row 1: ch1 and work 2 hdc in the same space as your join. 1 hdc. 2 hdc in next. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 20 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 1 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 20 hdc. 2 hdc and join to first hdc.

Row 2: ch1 and work 2 hdc in the same space as your join. 4 hdc. 2hdc in next. ch1. 2hdc in next. 23 hdc. 2hdc. ch1. 2hdc in next. 4 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 23 hdc. 2 hdc and join to first hdc.

Row 3: ch1 and work 2 hdc in the same space as your join. 7 hdc. 2 hdc in next. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 26 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 7 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 26 hdc. 2 hdc and join to first hdc.

Row 4: ch1 and work 2 hdc in the same space as your join. 10 hdc. 2 hdc in next. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 29 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 10 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 29 hdc. 2 hdc and join to first hdc.

Row 5: ch1 and work 2 hdc in the same space as your join. 13 hdc. 2 hdc in next. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 32 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 13 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 32 hdc. 2 hdc and join to first hdc.

Row 6: ch1 and work 2 hdc in the same space as your join. 16 hdc. 2 hdc in next. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 35 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 16 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 35 hdc. 2 hdc and join to first hdc.

Row 7-22: 1 hdc in each st around (120)

Row 23: 35 hdc. ch 40. skip 24 sts and join with sl st. ch1 and hdc in same st as join. 36 hdc. ch 40. skip 24 sts and join with sl st. ch 1 and 1 hdc in same st as join. join with sl st to first hdc.

Row 24 and 25: 1 hdc in each st around. (152) finish off and weave in ends!

I hope you all enjoy this tote and pattern!