Color Block Cardigan

I know I have been a little MIA this summer, but Ella finally went back to school this week and I have so much more time to get some things done for the website!

This cardigan has been an idea since last winter, but I finally just got to actually getting a pattern made and posted here. Of course, it didn’t turn out the way I pictured it so I frogged this thing at least 4 times.. BUT, I finally got to one I was very pleased with and I can’t wait for you guys to give it a shot and see what you think!

I am a pretty plain person when it comes to the colors in my wardrobe. In the winter, you usually won’t catch me in anything but black.. EVERYTHING is black! So, when I chose my colors for this cardigan, I of course went with grey and black. I do think this beauty would look great with some bold colors though so please share your finished cardigans with me! I will live through those who have a little more than black in their wardrobes!

Materials:

2 skeins of your first color in I Love This Yarn. I used light grey for mine (if you are making the L or XL, you will need an additional skein)

1 skein of your second color in I Love This Yarn. I used black (if you are making the L or XL, you will need an additional skein)

5.5 mm crochet hook ( used a looser tension with my second color so if you tend to use the same tension all the time, I would recommend a 6 or a 6.5 hook. you may even need to go bigger to achieve the proper gauge, depending on your tension.)

measuring tape

yarn needle

scissors

Notes:

As I mentioned above, you will need to check your gauge when you start with your second color and determine if you should go up in size with your hook.

I blocked my first piece (first color) when I got to my desired size. It did make it a little bit bigger, which I wanted, but I don’t think it made that much of a difference. I recommend blocking if you want your stitches to loosen up a bit but I don’t think its crucial.

Gauge:

I used a stitch pattern for the first piece so the gauge is different from the grey piece to the black pieces.

4 in is 14 sts across for 9 rows for the first piece (grey)

4 in is 9 sts across for 12 rows for the second part of the pattern (black)

Pattern: S/M(L,XL)

Ch 147(156, 165)

Row 1: in the second ch from hook, sc, ch 1, dc. sk 2 ch sts. sc, ch1, dc. (your sc, ch 1, dc will all be done in the same st) continue skipping 2 sts and doing you sc, ch1, dc in every third st. in your last ch st, just do a sc. ch 1 turn

Row 2-55(60,60): In your first ch 1 sp (in between the sc and dc from the previous row) do your sc, ch 1, dc. you will be doing a sc, ch 1, dc in every ch 1 space from the previous row. every row will end with a sc in the last st. ch 1

When you finish your last row, tie off and block your piece (if you decide to)

Lay your finished piece flat and fold the top and bottom corners to meet each other. starting from the far end, measure a 3 (5,6) inch (I do like my arm holes a little tighter but if you want a looser fit around the arms, feel free to make your arm holes whatever size you’re most comfortable with) space and put a stitch marker in to hold the sides together. sew your top and bottom flaps together starting at your stitch marker and moving towards the center of the piece until you reach the end.

Your piece should look like this when you are finished:

This will be the inside of your cardigan so you’re going to have to turn the piece right side out before continuing.

Next you will be taking your second color and attaching to the bottom left corner where your fold begins.

With looser tension, sc all the way around the collar and down until you reach that bottom right corner, ch 1 and sc all the way back around. continue sc around and ch 1 and turning and working back around until you have 12 rows.

Your piece should look like this when you finish with the sc rows around. Next, you’re going to ch 1 and turn so you are now working around the bottom of the piece and sc in each st around the bottom. when you get to the corner on the other end from where you started you’re going to ch 1, turn and work back around. continue with your sc rows until you have 13 rows. ch 1 and work one more row all the way back around the collar and down to the other end. I did this because I didn’t want the jagged edge on the bottom corners of my cardigan and it helped it to not curl at the corners as well. Tie off.

For the sleeves I took my second color and attached right where the 2 sides meet for the armholes.

Sorry for not getting a picture with the bottom rows on. I promise I am working on getting more pictures of the process for better visual descriptions!

Back to working the sleeves, attach your yarn and work sc into each st around the armhole. I got 18 around mine but you may get a different number. I made sure to count around each row so I didn’t miss one or add an extra st. so work your first row of sc around and sl st to the first sc in the row. ch 1 and work a sc in the same st and then a sc in each st remaining. Make sure you are sl st to the first sc in each row and ch 1 before you begin each row. complete 35 rows and tie off. Weave in all your ends and you’re finished!

Camper Doormat

Hey guys! This pattern was so necessary. We just got a new camper and it has such beautiful flooring but I needed a doormat to hold all the dirt and debris that gets tracked in from going in and out a million times in one camping trip. I looked everywhere for a simple and cute doormat that was the right size for our camper but I couldn’t find anything! Then it dawned on me, I’ll just make one! So I did and I love it!

Awhile back I caught wind that Dollar Tree sells yarn and such online. You can’t just order a specific number, you have buy a whole case. So, I jumped on their website one day just to check in and see if they had anything I might want and they did. It is tool bench cotton twine and came in a case of 24 and when I got it, I was not disappointed! It’s 100% cotton and I love the color and everything about it! I used about 2 and a half rolls for this doormat.

Materials:

3.5 mm crochet hook

about 1,050 ft of cotton twine or yarn

scissors

yarn needle

Pattern:

This doormat measures 23″ wide and 13″ tall before the fringe.

Ch 86

Row 1-72: (1 hdc, 1 sc ) to end. ch 1. turn.

My fringe is about 1 inch long and after I got it all attached to my doormat, I used a yarn needle to separate the strings of the twine to give it a fuller fringe look.

This pattern is so easy but it did take me a little bit of time to finish because the cotton was a little rough on my fingers so I took a lot of breaks! Plus, Ella has been home with me full time since preschool ended and I’m having a hard time finding time to do any crocheting. School starts up again in the next 3 weeks or so and I will have much more time to get some work done!

I hope you all enjoy this doormat! The sizes can be easily altered by chaining more at the beginning for the length and adding extra rows for the height.

Just Peachy Tank

Guys! I am so excited to finally be releasing the just peachy tank! It took me quite a few tries to get this beauty just right, but I finally got it to exactly the way I wanted it (which almost never happens).

This tank is so super easy and it works up pretty quickly! I wanted mine to be closer to a crop top so I could wear it with my high-waisted shorts but if you want yours to be a little longer, just chain more in your starting chain. This will not change anything in the pattern except the st count at the end of each row and the count when you do your sc increase and decrease. So, if you add 5 sts to your starting ch, then your st count should be 5 more than the one I have listed.

So, lets get started!

Materials:

5.0 mm crochet hook

3.0 mm crochet hook (for the straps)

1 skein of Baby Bee Sweet Delight in bashful (I didn’t even use the whole skein)

yarn needle

scissors

for my fringe, I used a standard envelope because I thought it would be perfect for the length of my fringe.

Notes:

The tank I made is a small. It measures 13.5″ in length from the highest point of the tank to the bottom (before the fringe)

This tank does have a good amount of stretch to it. I did the sizings according to the way I have listed below, but since everyone is different as far as measurements go, please check as you go to make sure this tank will fit according to your specific size! If you need help with adjustments, please feel free to contact me by going to the contact me section or by commenting.

When doing your sc row, you will be working into the back loops only! This gives the tank the ribbing.

Gauge:

15 sts in pattern for 13 rows is 4″

Size:

S- 32″-34″ bust. 13.5″ long

M- 36″ bust. 14.5″ long

L- 38″ bust. 15.5″ long

Please check to make sure this is the length you want per your size by measuring from where you want your top to come up to down to where you would like it to end (before the fringe) and adjust accordingly! Again, if you need help with this part, please feel free to contact me! I am always here to help!

Pattern:

Small

ch 44

Row 1: in second ch from hook, hdc and hdc in each ch st across. (43) ch 1, turn

Row 2: (remember to work in BLO in all sc rows) sc in each st across (43) ch 1, turn

Row 3-24: Repeat rows 1 and 2 (43)

Row 25: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (44) ch 1, turn

Row 26: sc in 43 sts. 2 sc in last st (45) ch 1, turn

Row 27: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (46) ch 1, turn

Row 28: sc in 45 sts. 2 sc in last st (47) ch 1, turn

Row 29: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (48) ch 1, turn

Row 30: sc in 47 sts. 2 sc in last st (49) ch 1, turn

Row 31: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (50) ch 1, turn

Row 32: sc in 49 sts. 2 sc in last st (51) ch 1, turn

Row 33: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (52) ch 1, turn

Row 34: sc in 51 sts. 2 sc in last st (53) ch 1, turn

Row 35: hdc across (53) ch 1, turn

Row 36: sc across (53) ch 1, turn

Row 37-45: Repeat rows 35 and 36, ending on a hdc row

Row 46: sc in 51 sts. sc2tog (52) ch 1, turn

Row 47: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (51) ch 1, turn

Row 48: sc in 49 sts. sc2tog (50) ch 1, turn

Row 49: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (49) ch 1, turn

Row 50: sc in 47 sts. sc2tog (48) ch 1, turn

Row 51: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (47) ch 1, turn

Row 52: sc in 45 sts. sc2tog (46) ch 1, turn

Row 53: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (45) ch 1, turn

Row 54: sc in 43 sts. sc2tog (44) ch 1, turn

Row 55: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (43) ch 1, turn

Row 56: sc in each st across (43) ch 1, turn

Row 57: hdc in each st across (43) ch 1, turn

Row 58-79: repeat rows 56 and 57. you should end on a hdc row. finish off

Turning the shirt inside out, line up your end and seam them together, making sure your sts line up with the other ends coordinating st, now you should have a tube top type piece.

Turn your shirt right side out and attach your yarn to the st on the left of your seam and do 1 sc in the top of each row along the top of the shirt. sl st to your first sc and finish off.

Strap

Make 2

using your 3.0 mm crochet hook, ch 86

hdc into each ch st and finish off. (85)

to add the straps, I connected them 3 inches from both sides of the seam and then criss-crossed them and attached the front of the straps to the far corner of the highest point of the tank. be sure to not get the straps twisted here.

Fringe

I took my envelope (one I had gotten in the mail that day, with the mail still in it so it wouldn’t fold up as easily) and held my yarn right at the bottom of my envelope. then I wrapped the yarn around the envelope several times and then cut all the pieces of yarn at the bottom of my envelope.

I took 2 pieces together and attached them at the bottom of each row.

Medium

ch 44

Row 1: in second ch from hook, hdc and hdc in each ch st across. (43) ch 1, turn

Row 2: (remember to work in BLO in all sc rows) sc in each st across (43) ch 1, turn

Row 3-24: Repeat rows 1 and 2 (43)

Row 25: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (44) ch 1, turn

Row 26: sc in 43 sts. 2 sc in last st (45) ch 1, turn

Row 27: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (46) ch 1, turn

Row 28: sc in 45 sts. 2 sc in last st (47) ch 1, turn

Row 29: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (48) ch 1, turn

Row 30: sc in 47 sts. 2 sc in last st (49) ch 1, turn

Row 31: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (50) ch 1, turn

Row 32: sc in 49 sts. 2 sc in last st (51) ch 1, turn

Row 33: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (52) ch 1, turn

Row 34: sc in 51 sts. 2 sc in last st (53) ch 1, turn

Row 35: 2 hdc in first. hdc in each st across (54) ch 1, turn

Row 36: sc in 53 sts. 2 sc in last st (55) ch 1, turn

Row 37: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (56) ch 1, turn

Row 38: sc in 55 sts. 2 sc in last st (57) ch 1, turn

Row 39: hdc across (57) ch 1, turn

Row 40: sc across (57) ch 1, turn

Row 41-49: Repeat rows 39 and 40, ending on a hdc row

Row 50: sc in 55 sts. sc2tog (56) ch 1, turn

Row 51: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (55) ch 1, turn

Row 52: sc in 53 sts. sc2tog (54) ch 1, turn

Row 53: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (53) ch 1, turn

Row 54: sc in 51 sts. sc2tog (52) ch 1, turn

Row 55: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (51) ch 1, turn

Row 56: sc in 49 sts. sc2tog (50) ch 1, turn

Row 57: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (49) ch 1, turn

Row 58: sc in 47 sts. sc2tog (48) ch 1, turn

Row 59: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (47) ch 1, turn

Row 60: sc in 45 sts. sc2tog (46) ch 1, turn

Row 61: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (45) ch 1, turn

Row 62: sc in 43 sts. sc2tog (44) ch 1, turn

Row 63: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (43) ch 1, turn

Row 64: sc in each st across (43) ch 1, turn

Row 65: hdc in each st across (43) ch 1, turn

Row 66-87: repeat rows 64 and 65. you should end on a hdc row. finish off

Turning the shirt inside out, line up your end and seam them together, making sure your sts line up with the other ends coordinating st, now you should have a tube top type piece.

Turn your shirt right side out and attach your yarn to the st on the left of your seam and do 1 sc in the top of each row along the top of the shirt. sl st to your first sc and finish off.

Scroll up for fringe and strap instructions.

Large

ch 44

Row 1: in second ch from hook, hdc and hdc in each ch st across. (43) ch 1, turn

Row 2: (remember to work in BLO in all sc rows) sc in each st across (43) ch 1, turn

Row 3-24: Repeat rows 1 and 2 (43)

Row 25: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (44) ch 1, turn

Row 26: sc in 43 sts. 2 sc in last st (45) ch 1, turn

Row 27: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (46) ch 1, turn

Row 28: sc in 45 sts. 2 sc in last st (47) ch 1, turn

Row 29: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (48) ch 1, turn

Row 30: sc in 47 sts. 2 sc in last st (49) ch 1, turn

Row 31: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (50) ch 1, turn

Row 32: sc in 49 sts. 2 sc in last st (51) ch 1, turn

Row 33: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (52) ch 1, turn

Row 34: sc in 51 sts. 2 sc in last st (53) ch 1, turn

Row 35: 2 hdc in first. hdc in each st across (54) ch 1, turn

Row 36: sc in 53 sts. 2 sc in last st (55) ch 1, turn

Row 37: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (56) ch 1, turn

Row 38: sc in 55 sts. 2 sc in last st (57) ch 1, turn

Row 39: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (58) ch 1, turn

Row 40: sc in first 57 sts. 2 sc in last st (59) ch 1, turn

Row 41: 2 hdc in first st. hdc in each st across (60) ch 1, turn

Row 42: sc in first 58 sts. 2 sc in last st (61) ch 1, turn

Row 43: hdc across (61) ch 1, turn

Row 44: sc across (61) ch 1, turn

Row 45-53: Repeat rows 43 and 44, ending on a hdc row

Row 54: sc in 59 sts. sc2tog (60) ch 1, turn

Row 55: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (59) ch 1, turn

Row 56: sc in 57 sts. sc2tog (58) ch 1, turn

Row 57: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (57) ch 1, turn

Row 58: sc in 55 sts. sc2tog (56) ch 1, turn

Row 59: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (55) ch 1, turn

Row 60: sc in 53 sts. sc2tog (54) ch 1, turn

Row 61: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (53) ch 1, turn

Row 62: sc in 51 sts. sc2tog (52) ch 1, turn

Row 63: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (51) ch 1, turn

Row 64: sc in 49 sts. sc2tog (50) ch 1, turn

Row 65: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (49) ch 1, turn

Row 66: sc in 47 sts. sc2tog (48) ch 1, turn

Row 67: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (47) ch 1, turn

Row 68: sc in 45 sts. sc2tog (46) ch 1, turn

Row 69: hdc2tog. hdc in each st across (45) ch 1, turn

Row 70: sc in 43 sts. sc2tog (44) ch 1, turn

Row 71: hdc2tog. hdc ine ach st across (43) ch 1, turn

Row 72: sc in each st across (43)

Row 73: hdc in each st across (43)

Row 74-95: repeat rows 72 and 73. you should end on a hdc row. finish off

Turning the shirt inside out, line up your end and seam them together, making sure your sts line up with the other ends coordinating st, now you should have a tube top type piece.

Turn your shirt right side out and attach your yarn to the st on the left of your seam and do 1 sc in the top of each row along the top of the shirt. sl st to your first sc and finish off.

Scroll up for fringe and strap instructions.

 

I hope you all love this pattern as much as I do!

Exfoliating Washcloth

Hey guys! I don’t talk about my super sensitive skin nearly as much as I used to because I have finally gotten it under control. I do still have flare ups with my psoriasis and I still am unsure why sometimes but I do know that the sun really irritates my skin, which sucks because I love the summertime and love being out in the sun. Having psoriasis makes my skin really dry and flakey in the spots that become irritated so I try to exfoliate a few times a week but it was also beginning to cause some flareups from time to time because of some of the unknown ingredients in the exfoliators I was trying. THIS WAS SO FRUSTRATING! I finally found a sea salt scrub that my skin could handle but I wasn’t completely in love. Not only was it a little too rough on my skin, but it was also really expensive!

I went to dinner recently with a good friend of mine and she was telling me that she tried this fancy loofa from the store and it left her skin really soft and with less breakouts on her arms from her own sensitivities. Then, it dawned on me, I could totally make a washcloth that exfoliated my skin! That would eliminate the unknown ingredients issue I had with every other exfoliator I tried.

This washcloth did not disappoint! Not only is it gentle enough for my crazy skin but it’s reusable and so super easy to make! I found my scrubby yarn that is made of 100% cotton at Hobby Lobby and it is seriously so soft and really gets the job done! I also grabbed a skein of the Hobby Lobby I Love This Cotton so that it would add some thickness to the scrubby yarn. This cotton is very soft and in my opinion, some of the best cotton yarn I have ever used.

Materials:

I only used about a quarter of a skein of Yarn Bee Scrub-ology Cotton in Brights

I also only used about a quarter of a skein of I Love This Cotton in White

6.5 mm crochet hook

scissors

yarn needle

Notes:

This washcloth is made holding one stand of the scrubby yarn and one strand of cotton at the same time.

Pattern:

Ch 17

Row 1: HDC in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch across (16) ch1, turn

Row 2-10: HDC in each st across. (16)

This washcloth is so simple and I hope it works as well for you as it does for me! I have already made several for myself!

Happy Making!

Natural Jute Handbag

Hi guys! I am so happy to be sharing this handbag with you! If you’re anything like me, you probably have a ton of casual and large purses (to fit all your mom stuff) but you don’t really have anything to use when you actually have a chance to get out somewhere nice without any kids.

I’ve been seeing round purses all over Pinterest and I love the way they look, so I used it as inspiration for this piece. Plus, I needed something that was not so momish, like all my other bags. I did a lot of searching for the right material for this bag and I decided on jute because it was totally what I had in mind when I pictured this piece. Now, jute is not an ideal material if you’re looking for soft, but I wanted this bag to be stiff and I was more concerned with the looks over the feels. Its texture is also why I made handles instead of straps because the thought of this guy rubbing on my sensitive skin anywhere was not appealing! I see a lot of people say this stuff hurts to work with but I honestly did not have much of a problem with that. It could be that my hands are rough or maybe that I didn’t work on it continually because I can never stay on one project at a time.. but I’m working on that!

Anyway, I hope you like this pattern and enjoy this summery handbag!

Materials:

2 rolls of Natural Jute- I got mine from hobby lobby but I do see it sold at a lot of places. This particular one I used is 3-ply and comes in 400ft rolls. I only used a small amount of the second one.

4.5 mm crochet hook

yarn needle

scissors

2 stitch markers

measuring tape

Notes:

In the pattern, when it says sc before a number, that means you’ll do 1 sc in each of the sts specified. for example, in row 3 it says (sc 3, 2 sc) that means you’ll do 1 sc in 3 sts and then 2 sc in the next st.

Each row ends with a sl st to join to the first sc in the round.

Pattern:

Circle Piece- Make 2

Row 1: In the magic circle, do 6 sc. join with a sl st to the first sc in the round. ch 1

Row 2: 2 sc in each st around. join. ch 1

Row 3: (1 sc, sc 2) 6 times. join. ch 1

Row 4: 1 sc, 2 sc (sc 2, 2 sc) 5 times. 1 sc in last st. join. ch 1

Row 5: (sc 3, 2 sc) 6 times. join. ch 1

Row 6: sc 2. 2 sc. (sc 4, 2sc) 5 times. sc 2 in the last 2. join. ch 1

Row 7: (sc 5, 2 sc) 6 times. join. ch 1

Row 8: sc 3. 2 sc (sc 6, 2 sc) 5 times. join. ch 1

Row 9: (sc 7, 2 sc) 6 times. join. ch 1

Row 10: sc 4. 2 sc. (sc 8, 2 sc) 5 times. join. ch 1

Row 11: (sc 9, 2 sc) 6 times. join. ch 1

Row 12: sc 5. 2 sc (sc 10, 2 sc) 5 times. join. ch 1

Row 13: (sc 11, 2 sc) 6 times. join. ch 1

Row 14: sc 6. 2 sc (sc 12, 2 sc) 5 times. join. ch 1

Row 15: (sc 13, 2 sc) 6 times. join. ch 1

Row 16: sc 7. 2 sc (sc 14, 2 sc) 5 times. join. ch 1

Row 17: ( sc 15, 2 sc) 6 times. join. finish off

Side Piece

Ch 10

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and in each st to the end. (9) ch 1. turn

Row 2-73: sc in each st (9) ch 1. turn

Row 74: sc in each st across (9) finish off

At this point I took one of my circle pieces and stitched the side on starting from the top of the side piece and ending at the bottom.

Here I want to explain what I did, originally I was going to have the seam on the inside of the purse but when I got it done, I didn’t like the way that looked and preferred the look of the seam on the outside of the purse. Also, I liked the ‘wrong’ side of the circle better than the ‘right’ side so I made sure the wrong side was facing out when I seamed the sides.

Next, grab your other circle piece and begin to sew it onto the opposite side of the side piece. I did not do any measuring here since both pieces are circle.

You should have your purse all sewn together now and just needing handles.

Handles- Make 2

Ch 33

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and in each st across (32) ch 1. turn

Row 2-3: sc in each st across (32) ch 1. turn

Row 4: sc in each st across (32) ch 1. now fold the piece in half so your starting ch lines up with row 4 of your piece and sl st into each st across. So, you’re going to go into your row 4 st first and out through your starting ch sts. finish off when you get to the end

To attach the handles, I measured 2 inches from the side piece and placed a st marker on both sides of each circle piece. The st marker represents where you want the outside st to be when sewing the handles on. So, when I was sewing the right side of the handle on, I started at the st marker and began to sew about 4 sts across just to make it sturdy. I went back and forth 3 times when sewing to ensure it would be thick enough to stand up on its own.

Weave in all your ends and your purse is done! I hope you love it!

Spring Cardigan

I am so excited to finally be releasing this pattern! This guy has been a roller coaster to create but I am so happy with the way it turned out in the end. I used a different technique to achieve the open stitch of this cardigan. I used the Tunisian crochet throughout the entire garment and I didn’t do any type of fitting (increase or decrease) so this thing is so easy to make once you get the Tunisian technique down.

So, once I finally got this guy all worked up, stitched together and blocked, I tried it on and it was NOTHING like I wanted it to be! I was so discouraged that I honestly thought about throwing it away and totally forgetting about making a spring cardigan entirely. Then, I took a few deep breathes and decided to try something totally different. I IRONED (gasp) the cardigan! I, of course, did some research and made some swatches before completely leaping into the process. I’ll admit, I was terrified to iron this beauty but I was pretty confident that things would work out, and it did (thankfully)!

Here is a picture of how my swatch looked before any blocking or anything was done.

As you can see, Tunisian crochet naturally curls, so I knew I had to block it. So, I made two of these swatches the exact same size so that I could compare what happened after blocking and then after ironing.

The top one is the one I ironed, it made the texture much flatter and more airy, which is the look I was going for. The bottom swatch is the one I steam blocked. It did open the stitches up but it still seems too tight and thick for a spring piece.

I made this cardigan available in several sizes and all the sizes are AFTER ironing! The swatch did get half an inch wider from ironing it. If you choose not to iron your cardigan, please take into consideration the sizing difference! Also, once you iron the cardigan, there is no going back. The stitches will stay as they are, no matter what.

Materials:

6.5 mm afghan crochet hook

4 skeins of baby bee sweet delight yarn in angel. sizes L and XL might need 5 skeins

yarn needle

Iron

4 stitch markers

Notes:

Sizing for the cardigan are as follows: S(M, L, XL)

S- Chest: 35″ Sleeve: 21” Hem-Underarm: 20″ Upper arm: 12″

M- Chest: 37″ Sleeve: 22” Hem-Underarm: 20″ Upper arm: 12″

L- Chest: 44″ Sleeve: 22” Hem-Underarm: 21″ Upper arm: 14.5″

XL- Chest: 49″ Sleeve: 22” Hem-Underarm: 21″ Upper arm: 15.5″

Gauge:

before iron: 8 rows of 16 sts is 4.5 ” across and 3″ tall

after iron: 8 rows of 16 sts is 5″ across and 3″ tall

How to Tunisian Crochet:

Ch 10 using your afghan hook

Normally in crochet you work your next sts into the top part of the chain st but here we will be working into the back of the st.

Insert your hook into the back of the st in the second chain from the hook and pull up a loop and leave it on your hook

Now, insert your hook into the back of the third st and bring up a loop and leave it on your hook. Continue to the end of the row by working into the back of your sts and pulling up a loop.

YO and pull through only the first loop on your hook.

YO and pull through the next TWO loops on your hook

Continue to the end of the row by YO and pulling through 2 loops until you only have one loop left on your hook. This will be your first row.

Now, you’re going to insert your hook behind the first straight up and down part of the first st.

YO and pull up a loop, leaving it on your hook

Continue the same way to the second to last st by pulling up a loop in the same spot on each st. When you get to the last st your going to insert your hook into the entire st. Make sure you pick up both parts of the st. YO and pull up a loop.

Start on your return row by YO and pulling through only the first loop on the hook. YO and pull through 2 loops to the end of the row when you have only 1 loop left on your hook.

Next, I’m gonna show you how to finish off at the end of your piece. So, you’re going to insert your hook into the st and pull up a loop like you normally would and then pull that loop through the first loop on your hook. Like a sl st.

Continue to the end of the row by pulling up a loop and then pulling that loop through the loop on your hook. You should only have one loop on your hook when you move to pull up your next loop.

My tension was a little tight when I did my return row, so make sure you watch your tension when you finish off. You don’t want your work to curve!

Pattern:

Front Panel: (make 2)

Ch 27(30,40,48) work in the Tunisian Crochet pattern until you do 75(75,80,80) complete rows (row 76 will be your ending row where you so the slip sts).

Back Panel:

Ch 60(66,86,102) work in the Tunisian Crochet pattern until you do 75(75,80,80) complete rows with your 76 row being your ending row.

At this point I connected my 2 front panels to my back panel. Make sure you sew them by turning your pieces with the right sides facing each other and the wrong side facing out. I lined up my outside corner of my front panel to the corresponding corner of my back panel. This is for the top (shoulders) of the cardigan.

For the sides I measured 7(8,9,10) inches from the top (shoulder) down and placed a st marker on the front panel and the back panel on both sides. This will be your armhole. I recommend you put this on and make sure this is a good size armhole for you, if it is not simply move the st marker to where you feel most comfortable. Please keep in mind that the armhole should be snug because it will loosen when we iron it out.

Arms:

I apologize right now for the fact that I can’t find the pictures I took of my arm process. I am so sorry!! I will do the best I can at explaining this process. Please comment if you need further explaining!

Turn your cardigan right side out so that the right side of your work is now facing you. Connect your yarn to where the st marker is on your front right panel (this would be the right side when facing the cardigan). Pic up a loop in each st working along the edge of the armhole until you get to the st marker you placed on the back panel and continue on with your return row like you would in the Tunisian Crochet pattern. Work for 61(61,64,64) rows and then finish off at row 62(62,65,65).

For the left sleeve (when facing the cardigan) you’re going to turn the cardigan around so the back is now facing you and attach your yarn at the st marker you placed on the back panel. Pick up loops along the edge of the back panel all the way around to your other st marker on the front left panel and continue on in the Tunisian Crochet pattern until you reach 61(61,64,64) rows finishing off at row 62(62,65,65).

Turn your cardigan back to inside out and sew up the sleeves on each side.

Now comes time to iron your cardigan. I actually steamed the cardigan with my iron steamer and stretched it out a bit (like blocking) before I ironed each piece. It makes it a lot easier to iron the parts that want to curl under. I also had my heat turned up pretty high. I did the highest heat but I have an old, cheap iron so if you have a strong, hot iron, you may want to investigate the heat setting a little before you begin.

I hope this pattern is as easy as it should be for you. It does take a little time but mostly because the yarn is thin and the Tunisian Crochet does take a bit longer for me to work up than normal crochet does. I hope you love your finished spring cardigan!

 

 

 

Summer Tote Insert

As promised, here is the little purse I made to carry things like your ID and cash or whatever you may need thats too small to just toss into your tote. This little purse is pretty much a tiny version of the tote. I made my sister one for our birthday and I added a magnetic closure using needle and thread but here I am posting the purse without any closure. If I get a lot of interest in how to add the closure I will make a separate post about it. This pattern only takes about 20 minutes to make and will use up the remaining yarn your have left over from the tote pattern.

Materials:

5.0 crochet needle

About 40 yards of 2 skeins of Yarn Bee, Denim in Color (I used 2 pieces of yarn together just like I did with the tote)

Yarn Needle

Scissors

Notes:

If you made the tote from my previous post, you already know we used 2 skeins at one time and we are doing the same with this little purse. This will be the perfect project to use of the remaining yarn you have leftover from the tote.

Each row will being in the same st as your join.

Pattern:

Ch 19.

Row 1: 3HDC in second ch from hook. 16HDC across. 3HDC in last ch. Turn your piece as you do your 3rd HDC and work on the back of your ch. 17HDC and join with sl st to your first HDC.

Row 2-9: Ch1. HDC in each st around. join to first HDC in each row with a sl st. (39)

Row 10: Ch1. 10HDC. ch11, skip 9 sts and join to the 10th st with a sl st. ch1 and do 1hdc in same st as join. 10HDC. ch11, skip 9 sts and join to beginning HDC with a sl st.

Row 11: Ch1. HDC in each st around and join with sl st to first HDC of the row. (43)

Finish off and weave in ends.

I hope you enjoy this little purse! My sister loves the one I made for her!

 

Crochet Summer Tote

Hey Guys! Sorry I haven’t posted in a while. I was invited to participate in a craft show and it took a lot of time to get things made and organized for it. I had so much fun doing it and getting out there for my first time, but I’m definitely glad to be back to making things for the site!

This tote turned out way different than I had pictured in my head. It was frogged a million times but I love the end result! I originally wanted to make it as a market bag because I am obsessed with Aldi and go there weekly, but once it started working up, I thought it looked like a perfect tote to take to the beach or park on a nice summer day that I am so desperately longing for! I am definitely sick of this cold weather!

After I finished this tote, I sent the picture to my sister and she all but demanded one in grey for our birthday so I quietly made her one and, just like with this one, I had a good amount of yarn leftover and thought it would be perfect to make a little small bag for the inside to keep the smaller things in while using the tote and it turned out so cute! So, I’ll be posting that pattern soon as well so stay tuned for that!

Materials:

5.0 mm crochet hook

6 balls of Yarn Bee Denim In Color. I used the taupe one for mine.

yarn needle

scissors

Notes:

The reason I needed 6 balls of yarn was because I used 2 strands at one time for this tote. It made it thick and sturdy and since the yarn is  50% cotton and 50% acrylic, it was perfect!

To make the bottom on the tote square, I did 2hdc in the corner then I chained one and did 2hdc in the next st. I did work into my previous rows ch1 space. Please do not be confused here. So, when I say 2hdc, ch1, 2hdc, the first 2hdc will be in the hdc right before the previous rows ch1 sp and the second 2hdc will go into the ch1 space from the previous row to keep the work square. If you need any further clarification here, please contact me through email found under the contact section to the right or comment directly on the post.

I only did my tote for 22 rows but you can make yours how ever tall you want so feel free to go past 22 rows.

Each row ends in the sl st from the previous rows join when working the square bottom.

Pattern:

Ch 20. (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) in second ch from hook. 17 hdc. (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) in last ch. turn your work over so you’re now working on the other side of the starting chain. 17 hdc. 2 hdc in last ch and join with sl st to first hdc.

Row 1: ch1 and work 2 hdc in the same space as your join. 1 hdc. 2 hdc in next. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 20 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 1 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 20 hdc. 2 hdc and join to first hdc.

Row 2: ch1 and work 2 hdc in the same space as your join. 4 hdc. 2hdc in next. ch1. 2hdc in next. 23 hdc. 2hdc. ch1. 2hdc in next. 4 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 23 hdc. 2 hdc and join to first hdc.

Row 3: ch1 and work 2 hdc in the same space as your join. 7 hdc. 2 hdc in next. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 26 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 7 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 26 hdc. 2 hdc and join to first hdc.

Row 4: ch1 and work 2 hdc in the same space as your join. 10 hdc. 2 hdc in next. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 29 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 10 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 29 hdc. 2 hdc and join to first hdc.

Row 5: ch1 and work 2 hdc in the same space as your join. 13 hdc. 2 hdc in next. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 32 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 13 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 32 hdc. 2 hdc and join to first hdc.

Row 6: ch1 and work 2 hdc in the same space as your join. 16 hdc. 2 hdc in next. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 35 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 16 hdc. 2 hdc. ch1. 2 hdc in next. 35 hdc. 2 hdc and join to first hdc.

Row 7-22: 1 hdc in each st around (120)

Row 23: 35 hdc. ch 40. skip 24 sts and join with sl st. ch1 and hdc in same st as join. 36 hdc. ch 40. skip 24 sts and join with sl st. ch 1 and 1 hdc in same st as join. join with sl st to first hdc.

Row 24 and 25: 1 hdc in each st around. (152) finish off and weave in ends!

I hope you all enjoy this tote and pattern!

 

Crochet Cable Poncho

Hey guys! Sorry I haven’t made a post in a long time. I was invited to participate in a local craft fair and I have pretty much been spending all of my time making things for it, but I am taking a break to get this beautiful and simple pattern out to you. I think this poncho is such a great transitional piece for the spring/fall weather so I thought that now would be the perfect time to post it! I will be including a lot of photos to make the cables as easy as possible for you to catch on to. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment or shoot me an e-mail. You can find my email in the contact section of my page. I hope you have as much fun with this pattern as I did!

Materials:

6 balls of Premier Yarns Everyday Yarn in Cream

5.5 crochet hook

yarn needle

scissors

Stitches:

fptc: front post triple crochet- wrap the yarn around the hook 2 times and insert behind stitch, pull up a loop, yo (yarn over) and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through 2. yo and pull through the last loops on hook.

fptc2tog: front post triple crochet 2 together- wrap yarn around hook 2 times and insert hook behind your stitch, yo and pull up loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through 2 more loops on hook, yo 2 times and insert hook behind next post, yo and pull up loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through last 3 loops on hook.

Notes:

When you do your fptc stitches, make sure you skip the stitch directly behind your post stitches so you’re always going to end with 90 sts at the end of each row.

Pattern:

Ch 91

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (90) ch 2, turn.

Row 2: dc in each stitch across (90) ch 1, turn.

Row 3: 2 sc. fptc (around the 3rd stitch in the sc row)

you will skip the stitch directly behind your fptc, 2 sc, fptc into the 5th stitch in the sc row from your first fptc,

3 sc, fptc around the same sc stitch you did your previous fptc into

.

*2 sc, fptc into 5th sc from the previous fptc.

2 sc. fptc in 5th sc from your previous fptc. 3 sc. fptc around the same sc you did your previous fptc into.* repeat from * to * 2 more times. 10 sc. in the 15th sc from your previous fptc, fptc.

3 sc. fptc into same sc as the previous fptc. 2 sc. fptc in the 5th sc from your previous fptc. 2 sc. *fptc in the 5th sc from your previous fptc. 3 sc. fptc into the same st as your previous fptc. 2 sc. fptc. 2sc.* repeat from * to *  2 more times. (90) ch 2, turn.

Row 4: dc in each st. (90) ch 1, turn.

Row 5: (all post stitches will be worked into the same st as the top of row 3s’ post stitches!) *2 sc. fptc.

4 sc. fptc2tog (first half of st around the first post and last part of stitch around the second post).

4 sc. * repeat from * to * 3 more times. 14 sc. *fptc2tog. 4 sc. fptc. 4 sc.* repeat from * to * 3 more times. end with 2 sc. (90) ch 2, turn.

Row 6: dc across (90) ch1, turn.

Row 7: (all post stitch will be worked into the same st as the top row 5s’ post stitches!) *2sc. fptc. 2 sc. fptc. 3 sc. fptc.* repeat from * to * 3 more times. 10 sc. *fptc. 3 sc. fptc. 2 sc. fptc. 2 sc.* repeat from * to * 3 more times.

Row 8: dc across (90) ch 1, turn.

Row 9-69: repeat rows 5-8 ending with a row 5.

Row 70: dc in each st (41). ch 1, turn.

Row 71: 1 sc. fptc. 3 sc. fptc. 2 sc. fptc. 2 sc. *fptc. 3 sc. fptc. 2 sc. fptc. 2 sc.* repeat from * to * 2 more times. (41) ch 2, turn

Row 72: dc in each st across (41). ch 1, turn.

Row 73: 3 sc. fptc2tog. 4 sc. fptc. *4sc. fptc2tog. 4 sc. fptc.* repeat from * to * 2 more times. 2 sc. (40) ch 2, turn.

Row 74- 121: repeat rows 71-73 ending with a row 73. finish off.

Starting on the back side of your work, (opposite side of the cables) count your stitches from the left end of your work to stitch 41 and join at that stitch.

Row 70 of right panel of poncho: dc in each st across (41). ch 1, turn.

Row 71: 2 sc. fptc. 2 sc. fptc. 3 sc. fptc. *2 sc. fptc. 2 sc. fptc. 3 sc. fptc. * repeat from * to * 2 more times. 1 sc. (41) ch 2, turn.

Row 72: dc in each st across (41). ch 1, turn.

Row 73: 2 sc. fptc. 4 sc. fptc2tog. *4 sc. fptc. 4 sc. fptc2tog.* repeat from * to * 2 more times. 3 sc.

Row 74-121: repeat rows 71-73 ending with a row 73. finish off.

You’re finally done with working up the piece!!

For the tassels I cut my yarn into about 10 inch long pieces and took 2 at a time and attached them to every 3rd st starting with the first one on the ends. You can put the tassels on however you like them best, this is just how I did mine.

I hope you all enjoy this pattern!

 

 

The Super Luxe Cardigan

Hey guys! I can’t even tell you how excited I am to be FINALLY releasing this pattern! I really love the way this cardigan turned out. It’s so soft, warm and comfortable and best of all its super simple to make. The yarn does take some getting used to but it is totally worth pushing through! This cardigan does have some stretch and give to it so when you first put it on the sleeves will seem tight but once you have it on and situated, the sleeves get more relaxed and its seriously just so comfortable! I still recommend putting your arms in the armholes as you work them just to make sure they aren’t too tight for you. Please keep in mind that the armholes begin at or below the elbows.

Materials:

5.5 MM crochet hook
3 skeins of yarn bee cloud 9 yarn. I used the grey.
Scissors
4 stitch markers
Yarn needle

Guage:

10 stitches across is 4 inches and 4 rows is going to be 2 inches tall. Please make sure you check your gauge for this project! I used pretty loose tension because of the extra fiber on the yarn.

Notes:

Since this is a relaxed fit cardigan and the yarn has so much give, I sized the small and medium together.

For the armholes on the XL, I would check to see how 5 inches feels. If you want it to be bigger, place your marker past 5 inches and do not do the decrease in row 3 of the armhole section.

Pattern S/M (L,XL):

CH 82 (87, 92) (this will be what I refer to as the bottom of the cardigan)
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and in each stitch across to end. (81 (86, 91)) ch1 and turn.
Row 2 – 56 (56, 58): repeat row 1 until your piece measures 28 (28, 30) inches tall. If you want your cardigan to be shorter than do less rows or more rows if you want it longer. It will not change anything in the pattern. Finish off.

This is what it looks like when you finish the body.

Now you’re going to fold the top half down to line up with the bottom.

On the right side of your folded piece, starting at the fold, you’re going to measure 5 inches and place a stitch marker in both sides of the piece to hold it in place. I also lined up the top and bottom stitches and placed a marker to make it easier to seam the sides.

Do the same on the left side and sew from the 5 in stitch marker to the bottom stitch marker.

Now open up the piece. The openings on the sides are going to be your armholes.

Now, join your yarn to the armpit of the armhole on the right side.

Armhole:

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around the armhole and join to the first sc. I got 24. I used a stitch marker (bobby pin because its easy to get in and out) to mark my first sc since the stitches are hard to see.
Row 2: Ch 1. sc in each st across and sl st to first sc. (24)
Row 3: (please note for the L and XL you may not want to do a decrease. Please check the way the armhole feels and decide) Ch 1. (Sc in the first 2 st. sc2tog in the next 2.) 6 times (18) sl st to first sc. (the next row will being in the same stitch as your sl st.)
Row 4-16: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. (18) finish off and weave in ends.
My arms are pretty long and I like my sleeves to be long so if you don’t want to do 16 rows or if you want to do more than 16 rows, that is completely up to you.

Repeat the process from the right armhole for the left armhole.

I really hope you all love this comfy cardigan as much as I do and thank you for visiting!